The Muslim style in Ethiopia
The most beautiful example belongs to the urban women of the ancient walled city of Harar. Marriage dresses are long, full smocks of indigo-dyed light cotton sewn up along a central longitudinal seam to form a V shaped neckline.
A piece of imported satin or damask of contrasting colour is sewn on to cover the shoulders, neck, breast, upper back.
All the edges of this applied fabric, and the neckline are outlined with delicate restrained floral embroidery in satin stitch, which forms identical patterns on the inside of the dress.
It is therefore possible to turn the dress inside out.
A practice carried out at various stages during the wedding ceremony.
John Gillow
african textiles